http://youtu.be/cEMHt1dUzQg

• Reasons not to declaw.
• Scratching is natural behavior for cats.
• Why do cats scratch?
• Provide your cat with an appropriate scratching post.
• How to get your cat to prefer the post.
• Trimming your cat’s nails.
• Soft Paws ®–Vinyl nail caps for cats. An excellent alternative.

Your sofa and your nerves are in tatters! You’re scolding your cat, knowing all the while that it’s futile. This is not a Cocker Spaniel you’re dealing with. This is one of nature’s most pragmatic and self sufficient creatures. Worse, you’re well aware that your cat considers your behavior aberrant. She looks at you as if you’ve gone slightly mad. “Why the Fuss?” she seems to say. “What are you raving about? I’m simply doing my thing–what’s with you?

You’re at an impasse. What to do?

First, understand that scratching is NORMAL cat behavior!

Don’t jump to the surgical solution: don’t declaw your cat.

The trick to managing scratching is to train the cat to use a post AS SOON AS THEY COME INTO YOUR HOME. You may need to buy a few different types of posts to find the one that your special new friend likes, but spend the bucks. Praise Kitty when she uses your new post. Locate it near to where she sleeps because scratching deposits pheromones in the paw pads on the environment, and when Kitty wakes up, she wants everyone to know that this is her special territory!

A cat’s claws are a vital part of its anatomy, and are there for a reason: their survival. Surgical removal of the nails involves an irreversible surgical procedure that typically involves amputating at the last joint of the cat’s toes. It is a painful procedure with potential for complications. Pain management with medications is essential both during and following this procedure. Another procedure, called tendonectomy is even more controversial.

Cats are designed with a delicate balance—just watch them walking, run, stalk, climb, and jump and you will be thrilled with their agility! You’ve observed cats climbing trees, teetering perilously on a single branch, leaping incredible heights to land on a pre-selected spot, or threading in and out of complex arrangements of knickknacks without disturbing a single ornament. (unless, of course, they choose to do so!) These are acts of balance requiring their claws in part.

In addition to being an intrinsic part of a cat’s normal conformation, front claws are a cat’s “front-line” defense. Once declawed, there is no replacement or re-growth of the claws. You may think, “My cat never goes outside.” But what if your cat accidentally gets outside and you can’t find her? She is now at a disadvantage in a potentially hostile environment.

Some cats may not do well after declawing, especially those that are declawed later in life. Here, healing is slow, and adaptation to the new condition is poor in many instances. If signs such as urinating on your favorite rug or spraying your antique armoire occur, they can indicate poor adaptation. Kitty may become hostile to people (including you), and to other cats, and become more apt to bite if poor adaptation occurs. Some consider the procedure inhumane, and in wild felids kept in zoos, it is considered universally unacceptable.

For more information on declawing, please visit http://www.declawing.com

Let us explore some of the basic concepts that you need in order to understand this issue:

Concept 1

Say it again, scratching is a natural behavior for cats.

This isn’t exactly a revelation, since you probably have the evidence everywhere–in the tattered corners of your sofa, the shredded drapes, and in your frayed nerves. Though Kitty’s natural propensity for scratching might not be new news, it is a fact that you’ll need to take into account if you’re to make any headway in winning the battle to keep her from scratching in places you consider undesirable.

Concept 2

You can’t keep your cat from scratching!

What you can do is stop her from scratching those items you value and want to keep in their relatively pristine state. Bear in mind Mark Twain’s advice, which applies universally: Never try to teach a pig to sing; it frustrates you and annoys the pig. Translate this bit of wisdom to your dealings with cats and you’ll avoid a good deal of futility and frustration. You can’t make a cat do anything she doesn’t want to do. And getting her to stop something she enjoys and is programmed to do is just about as difficult. Therefore, you have to think smart and re-channel her location preference.

Concept 3

A word about punishment–Don’t do it!

Cats don’t understand physical punishment. In addition to it being wrong to hit your cat, punishment simply doesn’t work and is likely to make your situation worse. Clever though Kitty is about many things, she won’t understand that you’re punishing her for scratching the couch. She will only compute that sometimes when you catch her she is treated badly. This may make her insecure and stimulate her to scratch more or develop other undesirable behavior problems. Eventually you will break the trust and security that is the basis for your cat’s relationship with you, and you will find it very difficult to catch her for any reason at all. Cats have excellent memories and hold serious grudges.

Concept 4

Why do cats scratch my valuable stuff?

Hey, this stuff is valuable to you. For them, it is just another scratching post! As mentioned above, this is their king-cat-dom, and this is why they mark the most visible portions of your house. It’s Kitty’s way of adding her own personal touch to your (and her) home. Her version of interior decorating is with scent glands of face and paws!

Scratching also serves to keep your cat in shape. The act of scratching stretches and pulls and works the muscles of a cat’s front quarters–a cross between a feline gym workout and Kitty Yoga. It also helps to remove the dead nail sheaths that if not removed by scratching, lead to serious nail overgrowth, lameness and potentially, nail bed infections. Hey! It also feels good to scratch (we think—by the look on their faces!). So give up the idea of reforming Kitty’s desire to scratch. Re-channel her into scratching where you want her to. You’ll both be happier.

Concept 5

Provide your cat with appropriate scratching posts.

Since your cat brings you so much joy, you decide to buy her the softest, prettiest and most luxurious scratching post you can find. You take it home and your feline friend gives you a blank stare and walks away. This activates your parental guidance mechanism and you decide to show her how to use the post by taking her front paws and making scratching motions at the post. She of course struggles till she gets free of you and then treats you with utter disdain for the rest of the day. Never make the mistake of trying to “show her how” to scratch anything. You’ll only offend her. She knows perfectly well how to do it. She just reserves the right to scratch when and where it suits her. Try a bit of catnip rubbed on the post. Place it where she normally scratches. Play near the post, which may help kitty associate the post with fun. Sometimes if you scratch the post, kitty will follow suit. Praise kitty when you see her using her post.

Usually, cats will appreciate more then one post, and be more inclined to use their scratching furniture as a result. In the wild, cats may scratch on trees with a variety of bark types, as well as on tree roots that run along the ground. Consider buying kitty a horizontal or “angle” scratcher as well as a vertical post to accomodate these two scratching positions. If kitty has three favorite places in the house where she likes to hang out, for best results put scratching posts in all three of those locations. When cats get the itch to scratch, they look for a place nearby; they don’t want to travel to satisfy their scratching urge.

Concept 6

We are saying– appropriate .

Bear in mind that your idea of desirable and Kitty’s may not coincide. Cats like rough surfaces that they can shred to pieces. The scratching post with the most aesthetic appeal to your cat is often a tree stump, though this is a bit unwieldy in a one-bedroom apartment. Whatever post you choose, it must be tall enough for her to fully extend her body, and most important, it must be secure. If it topples over even once, she won’t go back to it. Sisal scratching posts are ideal for releasing Kitty’s primal urges. This is a material she can shred to pieces with great satisfaction. Be sure not to throw it away when it is shredded, since that’s when she’s just broken it in satisfactorily, and she will not appreciate your tidiness!

Concept 7

How to get Kitty to prefer the post!

Remember that an important part of scratching is the cat’s desire to mark a territory. If it topples or shakes, she won’t use it though. It should either be secured to the floor or have a base wide enough and heavy enough to keep it stable. Have her chase a string or a toy around the post or attach toys to it, which will result in her digging her claws into it. Eventually she will learn to love it and regard it as her own. Cats like to scratch when they awaken, especially in the morning and the middle of the night. If space permits, a scratching post in every room of the house is a cat’s delight. The most important place is the area of the house in which you and Kitty spend the most time. I have many sisal posts in my house, yet often in the morning my cats line up to use the one in the living room.

If at first Kitty is reluctant to give up her old scratching areas, there are means you can use to discourage her. Covering the area with aluminum foil or double-sided tape is a great deterrent. These surfaces don’t have a texture that feels good to scratch.

Remember too that Kitty has marked her favorite spots with her scent as well as her claws. You may need to remove her scent from the areas you want to distract her away from. You will find pet odor removers in pet stores. Cats have an aversion to citrus odors. Use lemon-scented sprays or a potpourri of lemon and orange peels to make her former scratching sites less agreeable to her.

If Kitty still persists in scratching the furniture, try squirting her with a water gun or a spray bottle set on stream—but keep out of sight or she will learn to avoid you and do the behavior when you are gone. Another option is a loud whistle or other noise-maker. You must employ these deterrents while she is getting positioned for scratching for them to be effective. The point is to establish an aversion to the spot you don’t want her to scratch.

Concept 8

Start them young.

As mentioned above, if you are starting with a kitten, consider yourself fortunate. It’s much easier to initiate good habit patterns than to correct undesirable ones. From the beginning teach your kitten the appropriate place to scratch. Use the methods already described, especially playing around the scratching post to capture her interest. Take advantage of your kitten’s desire to play and attach toys to the post. She will soon “dig in” to catch her toy and discover how good it feels to scratch this surface. Do not take her paws and make her scratch the post. This is a major turn-off and will only inspire a bratty “you can’t make me” attitude. Even at an early age, cats refuse to be coerced into doing what they don’t want to do.

If she starts to scratch an inappropriate object, immediately place her in front of her scratching post and begin petting her. Some cats will begin kneading when petted, thus digging their claws into the desired surface and establishing this as a fine place to scratch. Cats are creatures of habit. Start them off with good ones.

Tips!

Trim your cat’s nails regularly

This might seem obvious, but setting up a regular schedule, putting the days on the calendar, and sticking to it is the way to go! You can defray some of your cat’s potential for destruction by carefully trimming the razor-sharp tips of her claws. You will find this endeavor more easily accomplished by two people, one to hold Kitty gently and one to trim her nails. If done regularly from a young age, with gentle handling, and plenty of praise, the event will become just another part of your regular grooming routine. Hear regular—keeping to a schedule of trims will help your cat understand that this is life…You may need to start by trimming just one nail per session, then if you are lucky, maybe two—the bottom line is never to force her to accept this grooming technique. Once you do, she has a memory of an elephant and will remember that when the trimmers come out, she should go and hide…or hiss and spit and do whatever… to get rid of this aversive event! Follow this link to learn how to trim nails in a gentle and effective fashion See our articleNail Trimming.

Consider Soft Paws ®

An excellent alternative..

If all of this is too time consuming and you have a strictly indoor cat, you have another very desirable option; a wonderful product called Soft Paws ®. These are lightweight vinyl caps that you apply over your cat’s own claws. They have rounded edges, so your cat’s scratching doesn’t damage your home and furnishings. You can find Soft Paws ® on the web by clicking here or call 1-800-989-2542.

Soft Paws ® are great for households with small children, as they guard against the child getting scratched. They are also extremely useful for people who are away from home all day and simply can’t apply the watchfulness necessary to train a cat to use a scratching post. An important caveat here, however; they should be used only on indoor cats, since they blunt one of the cat’s chief means of self-defense. Soft Paws ® last approximately six weeks once Kitty becomes accustomed to them. At first they may feel a bit strange to her and she may groom them excessively, causing them to come off sooner. She’ll get used to them quickly though, and thereafter they will last longer. It is amazing how well cats tolerate the Soft Paws ®— most don’t even notice they are wearing them.

Soft Paws ® come in a kit and are easy to apply. Just glue them on. They are generally applied to the front paws only, since these are what cause most of the destruction to your home. A kit will last approximately three to six months, depending on your cat. After applying the Soft Paws ®, check Kitty’s claws weekly. You may find one or two caps missing from time to time, and these are easily replaced using the adhesive included in the kit. To make application easier for both you and your cat, follow the instructions on how to acclimatize your cat to having her paws handled.

The great majority of cats tolerate Soft Paws ® well. The brattiest of my own cats, a princess who is hyper-fastidious, wears them with aplomb. On her, by the way, one Soft Paws ® kit last at least five months.

As a checklist, here are the pertinent things to remember:

1- Don’t declaw!
2- Understand your cat’s need to scratch—it is totally normal and will never go away!
3- Forget punishment–it doesn’t work—the movie says it: Cats rule!
4- Provide a suitable place for your cat to scratch
5- Make the scratching post attractive to Kitty (e.g., use sisal posts)
6- Make the place she’s been scratching unattractive (use physical or scent related deterrents)
7- Whenever possible, start cats young since if trained early, almost EVERY cat can be educated to leave your valuable furniture alone
8- Trim your cat’s claws (on a regular schedule, starting in kittenhood)
9- For indoor cats, consider Soft Paws ® as an easy alternative.

Remember, cats were scratching stuff a long time before we invented high priced furniture and drapes…be patient and your reward will be a kitty that knows your territory and hers!

An Old Dog Requires Tender Loving Care

Find Helpful Tips To Better Care For Your Old Dog &
Dogs Of All Ages!

Meet our old dog “Lulu” who turned the ripe old age of sixteen in 2010. It is with great sadness that we have to inform our visitors that we suddenly lost Lulu on June 30, 2010.
R.I.P. Our old girl – we love and will miss you. See Lulu’s final videohere.

It’s no accident that Lulu was extremely healthy, fit and full of life. Through diet, exercise and emotional stimulation, she was able to remain healthy for many years. Lulu was also a cancer survivor and in remission for four years.

We adopted Lulu from a local humane society when she was two years old. Besides being very thin, she was infested with fleas and had an infected ear which required surgery.

Those were the obvious problems, but over the years she introduced us to a few more such as severe allergies and thunder phobia.

Many of the topics that we discuss throughout our website are based upon our own experiences with Lulu and our many other dogs.

Always Provide Your Old Dog With A Quality Diet, Social Activity, Exercise And Professional Veterinary Care

Once dogs reach the age of eight, many professional breeders and Veterinarians consider them to be seniors and old dogs. Since all of our dogs have been large and lived to be fourteen (the youngest), I don’t necessarily agree with that thinking. Yet, my goal is to make it as easy as possible for you to find the best dog products, dog supplies and resources available for your aging dog.

Like younger dogs, older dogs need social activity to remain healthy and vibrant. A healthy supply of love and fun, combined with excellent nutrition, exercise and his favorite dog treat will liven-up almost any dog.

So re-energize your dog with good old fashioned fun including walking, ball time or whatever it is that your best friend likes to do. The attention and exercise stimulate their mind and body and ultimately keep them young.

An Active Dog Is A Young Dog

Although all dogs live for routine, old dogs especially rely on it. A nice walk in a dog park or a good game of fetch provides great exercise and social activity for your old dog. A game of hide-and-seek with his favorite ball or toy is a great at home game for your senior dog.

Remember, dogs love to work so spend a few minutes teaching him a new trick and he’ll enjoy the attention as well as the special treats.

Another idea is to make him use his “sense of smell” by developing a game of “Search and Rescue” which all dogs seem to love. Pick out an object such as a dog treat or toy. It’s important that you allow your dog to thoroughly smell it. Make him remain in position while you hide the object. Now, tell him to “find it” and watch that nose go. It might take a few times for him to catch on, but he will.

Since self esteem is critical for dogs and it’s very important to make a big deal about his trick so that he knows he is still top dog no matter what his age!

Dogs and Family

That special bond that we have with our dog is indeed special. Our spouse, our children and our pets make up our family. They have their place in our hearts and in our homes. It’s natural to want the best for him just like any other family member.

Remember, routine is one of the best things that you can give to your old dog, by providing consistency, your dog will be confident that you will always be there for him. In turn, you will have a content and well behaved dog that will bring you joy for many years.

Old Dogs Warm The Heart
And By Providing Time For Your Dog Today,
You’ll Receive Even More Time With Him Tomorrow…

Dealing with Kidney Failure in Cats and Dogs

by Dr. Larry Siegler

Kidney Disease, known as Chronic Renal Failure (CRF) in cats and Canine Kidney Failure (CIN) in dogs, is a diagnosis that no one wants to hear for their beloved companion.  It is, however, one of the more common problems seen in aging pets.  While chronic renal failure is more common in cats, it is certainly a problem we see in dogs as well.  Acute kidney failure is generally the result of poisoning or external toxins of some type.  Chronic kidney failure is usually a slowly progressive disease that often goes unnoticed for quite some time.

The kidneys function is to filter out and excrete toxins from the body through the urine.  One of the first signs of kidney failure is an increase in thirst and urination.  This is why: A healthy kidney can concentrate toxins into a smaller amount of liquid to be urinated away.  When the kidneys are damaged and become less able to concentrate the urine, more fluid is used by the body.  As the kidneys become less efficient and the disease progresses, other signs of CRF begin to emerge such as weight loss, nausea, constipation, low energy / fatigue, and poor appetite.

Diagnosis

Most animals do not show signs of kidney failure until about 70% – 75% of kidney function has been lost.  In order to diagnose CRF/CIN and determine the extent of the disease, a blood test and urinalysis is needed.  Detailed information about the factors considered in the testing is outlined in this article on the VeterinaryPartner.com web site:  Kidney Failure (Chronic Renal Failure)

Conventional Treatment

Additional information is provided in the article quoted above regarding conventional medical treatments and medications.  The one treatment that is common to most cats with chronic CRF is subcutaneous fluids.  The treating veterinarian’s office will generally train the animal’s guardian to do this at home.  This is generally not very painful to the cat, and will most definitely extend their quality of life.

Diet

A low-protein, low-phosphorus and low-sodium diet may be recommended for a cat or dog with kidney disease.  Some studies suggest that feeding a diet low in phosphorus may help slow the progression of kidney failure by reducing mineral deposits in the kidneys.  Low-protein diets are a bit more controversial.  Low-protein diets generate fewer nitrogenous wastes – high levels of which can cause nausea and vomiting.  However, the diet for each cat or dog with kidney disease should be tailored to their own specific needs as indicated by the stage of the disease and the blood and urinalysis test results.

For many animals, a diet with HIGH QUALITY protein will be better than a low-protein diet.  Typically I recommend a home-made diet for my patients with CRF/CIN that addresses their individual needs.  Low-protein diets, if not carefully managed, can lead to malnutrition.  If a low-protein diet is necessary, a canned formula designed for senior animals may be an option (click for cats or for dogs).  If you are not sure of what is best for your companion, a consultation with a holistically trained veterinarian would be advised.

Dry food is not a good option for animals with kidney problems, especially cats.  Hydration is extremely important for animals with kidney disease.  Cats, especially, tend to become chronically dehydrated on a diet of dry kibble.  Inappropriate diet is thought to be one of the contributing factors to chronic renal failure.

Nutritional Supplements

Omega 3 fatty acids from marine fish oil have been shown to slow the progression of kidney disease in a clinical trial with dogs.  The anti-inflammatory action of the Omega 3’s may reduce kidney inflammation.  Vitamin E is often recommended along with the Omega 3 oils as they act synergistically.  The dosage for Omega 3 fatty acids can generally be increased up to twice that recommended on the product label, but reduce the dosage if loose stools result.  (Click for Essential Fatty Acidsfor cats or for dogs.)

I also recommend B-complex and vitamin C to help replenish the vitamins lost due to the inability of the kidneys to recycle and retain these nutrients in the body properly.  Some dogs and cats appear to have a better appetite and feel better when given B vitamins or an appropriate vitamin-mineral complex:

Multi Vitamin Nutritional Supplements - for cats or for dogs
Small Animal Antioxidant by Thorne Research

Additionally, potassium supplementation may be necessary for some animals.

Herbs & Nutriceuticals

Both Chinese and Western herbs can be useful in the beginning stages of kidney disease.  As the disease progresses, consultation with a holistically trained veterinarian is recommended for proper use of appropriate herbal remedies.

Renagen by Thorne Research
A Chinese herbal formula based on a classic combination of herbs used to strengthen kidney function.

Renal Essentials for Dogs or for Cats
Contains herbs, amino acids and vitamins and minerals to help maintain optimal kidney function, balance urine pH and mineral levels, normalize circulation, and strengthen the immune response to foreign material in the urinary tract and kidneys.

Only Natural Pet Kidney / Urinary Support Herbal Remedy
An herbal complex that soothes and protects the entire urinary tract and stimulates the kidneys to eliminate passive congestion.

Additional supplements, such as Renafood by Standard Process, can be helpful for chronic renal failure, but require a consultation with a veterinarian for prescription.  Always consult with your veterinarian before starting your dog or cat on any new herb or supplement when dealing with kidney disease.

Additional Recommendations

It is helpful to take steps to reduce stress for any animal with kidney disease.  Quality of life is an important consideration when deciding how aggressively to treat any disease.  Flower Essences can be helpful in supporting your companion emotionally and aiding in stress reduction and are completely safe to use along with any conventional or alternative treatment for kidney disease.

Acupuncture can be very helpful for animals with kidney disease.  Regular acupuncture can help slow the progression of the disease, stimulate the kidneys and boost the overall vitality of a dog or cat.  I typically include vitamin B12 injections with the acupuncture or possibly homeopathic treatment.

Some animals can live for many months or even years after a diagnosis of kidney disease.  Cats seem to fair better than dogs in this way.  While you are ultimately the decision maker in the treatment of your companion, it is important to utilize your veterinarian as a crucial part of the team, ideally along with a holistic practitioner that can offer alternative treatments to compliment any conventional medications or treatments.

Helpful Resources and Links:

Feline CRF Information Center
http://www.felinecrf.com/index.htm

Holisticat
http://www.holisticat.com/crf.html

Canine Renal Disease: Danemist.com – has many helpful links
http://www.danemist.com/renaldisease.html

Recipes for home-prepared kidney diets:
Book by Dr. Donald R. Strombeck
http://store.blackwell-professional.com/0813821495.html

by Bud Herron, Columbus, Indiana, USA

Some people say cats never have to be bathed. They say cats lick themselves clean. They say cats have a special enzyme of some sort in their saliva that works like new, improved Wisk — dislodging the dirt where it hides and whisking it away.

I’ve spent most of my life believing this folklore. Like most blind believers, I’ve been able to discount all the facts to the contrary, the kitty odors that lurk in the corners of the garage and dirt smudges that cling to the throw rug by the fireplace.

The time comes, however, when a man must face reality: when he must look squarely in the face of massive public sentiment to the contrary and announce: “This cat smells like a port-a-potty.”

When that day arrives at your house, as it has in mine, I have some advice you might consider as you place your feline friend under your arm and head for the bathtub:

• Know that although the cat has the advantage of quickness and lack of concern for human life, you have the advantage of strength. Capitalize on that advantage by selecting the battlefield. Don’t try to bathe him in an open area where he can force you to chase him. Pick a very small bathroom. If your bathroom is more than four feet square, I recommend that you get in the tub with the cat and close the sliding-glass doors as if you were about to take a shower. (A simple shower curtain will not do. A berserk cat can shred a three-ply rubber shower curtain quicker than a politician can shift positions.)
• Know that a cat has claws and will not hesitate to remove all the skin from your body. Your advantage here is that you are smart and know how to dress to protect yourself. I recommend canvas overalls tucked into high-top construction boots, a pair of steel-mesh gloves, an army helmet, a hockey face mask, and a long-sleeved flak jacket.
• Prepare everything in advance. There is no time to go out for a towel when you have a cat digging a hole in your flak jacket. Draw the water. Make sure the bottle of kitty shampoo is inside the glass enclosure. Make sure the towel can be reached, even if you are lying on your back in the water.
• Use the element of surprise. Pick up your cat nonchalantly, as if to simply carry him to his supper dish. (Cats will not usually notice your strange attire. They have little or no interest in fashion as a rule. If he does notice your garb, calmly explain that you are taking part in a product testing experiment for J.C. Penney.)
• Once you are inside the bathroom, speed is essential to survival. In a single liquid motion, shut the bathroom door, step into the tub enclosure, slide the glass door shut, dip the cat in the water and squirt him with shampoo. You have begun one of the wildest 45 seconds of your life.
• Cats have no handles. Add the fact that he now has soapy fur, and the problem is radically compounded. Do not expect to hold on to him for more than two or three seconds at a time. When you have him, however, you must remember to give him another squirt of shampoo and rub like crazy. He’ll then spring free and fall back into the water, thereby rinsing himself off. (The national record for cats is three latherings, so don’t expect too much.)
• Next, the cat must be dried. Novice cat bathers always assume this part will be the most difficult, for humans generally are worn out at this point and the cat is just getting really determined. In fact, the drying is simple compared to what you have just been through. That’s because by now the cat is semipermanently affixed to your right leg. You simply pop the drain plug with you foot, reach for your towel and wait. (Occasionally, however, the cat will end up clinging to the top of your army helmet. If this happens, the best thing you can do is to shake him loose and encourage him toward your leg.) After all the water is drained from the tub, it is a simple matter to just reach down and dry the cat.

In a few days the cat will relax enough to be removed from your leg. He will usually have nothing to say for about three weeks and will spend a lot of time sitting with his back to you. He might even become psychoceramic and develop the fixed stare of a plaster figurine.

You will be tempted to assume he is angry. This isn’t usually the case. As a rule he is simply plotting ways to get through your defenses and injure you for life the next time you decide to give him a bath.

But at least now he smells a lot better.

I think it sums up just about everything all dog owners feel about their dogs!  It could say…”it’s just a cat” or “it’s just a horse” just as easily.

Pet lovers…in general…understand!

Dog Training before Dog Walking
Opt for formal classes, if they are available and affordable. Start while the dog is a puppy, and continue until the dog can be trusted off leash. Your dog can earn the AKC Canine Good Citizen certificate, which indicates a level of obedience and training attained. If attending classes is not possible, you may want to try training books, such as Carol Lea Benjamin’s Mother Knows Best, Surviving Your Dog’s Adolescence Compare Prices, or Dog Training in 10 Minutes Compare Prices. The end result of good training is a dog that is a pleasure to walk with — one that will sit, down and heel on command, as necessary. You really don’t want to be towed into the sunset at about 60 MPH!

Dog Walking Your Dog on a Leash
If your dog is on a leash, it can’t get away and cause problems. Consider using a pinch collar while walking your dog, if he is a puller, to increase your control and comfort. Some walkers use a harness, and others find retractable leashes to be the best way to give the dog a little more slack, then reel them in as needed.

Is Dog Walking Allowed Where You Plan to Walk?
Check with the organizers of dog walking events you plan to attend. If dog walking in a park, call ahead to check to see if there are any restrictions. Note that dogs are sometimes allowed on trails, but not on buses.

Carry a Pooper Scooper While Dog Walking
If you don’t have (or want to purchase) the actual tool, try a plastic bag. Many carry the plastic bags that newspapers sometimes come in. When the bag is placed over the hand, you can pick up what you have to, turn the bag inside out, and tie the end closed. Dispose of it properly. Zip-closure storage bags are another secure option.

Staying Hydrated While Dog Walking
Carry water for both you and your pet. You can use your hand as a water dish for him. Some walkers suggest using collapsible cups, inflatable water dishes, and zip-closure bags, as well.

Taking Time for Rest While Dog Walking
Find a shady spot and take ten. Play with the dog, talk to other dog walkers, and cool down a bit. Dogs can’t sweat. They keep cool by panting, finding shady spots, walking in water, and drinking lots of water. If you are dog walking near water in the summer, find a safe place (not public beaches) and let your dog go swimming. If you drove to your dog walking spot, be sure not to leave your dog in a vehicle unattended if it’s warm out and you’re making stops on your way home.

Identification
Every dog should have a couple of forms of identification. Name tags and collars get lost. Tattoos and embedded micro-chips will back up the name tag. You should carry a clear photo of the dog, which can aid in recovery, should such a situation arise. Also, some areas of the country require you to carry your dog’s rabies certificate with you.

Is Your Dog Ready for any type of Dog Walking?
Before taking a dog on a 10K, consider if the dog is healthy enough, has the desire, and is trained enough to walk the distance at your side. You should get an OK from your veterinarian if your pooch has any sort of medical problem, is overweight, etc. Work up to the longer distances with him by doing the shorter distances first.
Wendy Baumgardner About.com guide